Lunch at the Fish Quay June 2013

My late May and early June review of recent films and of TV gets put back another week after enjoying another three days of sunshine, the River and the coast. On Thursday June 6^th 2013 I failed to dress warmly for my first visit to the sea coast amphitheatre thus restricting my length of stay. It was my first walk along the sea coast this year although I have been down to the sea front in the car for mini walks before the car parking charges were reintroduced for the season.

I was not the only person who regretted not having a thicker coat as the temperature dropped despite the sun remain out until late and there was a flood of those dressed for the promenade and beach making their way home back along Ocean Road on foot/

There were also six merchant vessels laying off the Tyne entrance well away from the dangerous rocks close to the shores. As I returned home one of the ships, looking the largest, was being escorted into the river mouth by one of the four tugs still available compared to the twenty or so who traded until the 1970’s. Now the four are owned by an international company which provides most of the tugs looking after shipping in most fo the Worlds great River ports. They are equipped with the latest communications, radar and weather technology and their HQ is a short distance from that of the River Police, both on the South Tyneside side of the river, and where the latter also acts as a training centre, while further along on the other side of the hill is the Life boat training centre and also the centre used by the South Tyneside College marine school.

The sand dunes and large swaths of sand looked in pristine condition as did the new pathways and walling. The Marsden Rattler, twin train carriages Italian restaurant is still too expensive for every day eating for my pocket but the adjacent Restaurant pub compares with the nearest Wetherspoons in terms of special offers such as 2 for 1 which excludes me and Curry night which is a possibility as I have decided that I should eat our more at least once a week when at home.

There were a few camping vehicles and caravans in the park adjacent to the official site now given over fully to large attractive looking holidays home, too many in too close proximity for my lacking but bring more weekenders to the town.

As is my custom I walked up and along the walkway which overlooks the beach and the amphitheatre and water feature. The surface of the walkway has been redone with attractive all weather bench seating enabling panoramic view towards the Priory and castle ruins on Tynemouth hill across the entrance of the Tyne, six parked merchant ships, the great sands and then down the coast to Sunderland, Hartlepool and Middlesbrough. Beneath me, keeping out of the cold and firm breeze, about a dozen keep fit men and women were being put through their paces and this year for the first time the local authority had invested in an all weather canopy above the playing stage located close to the amphitheatre but would also enable the show to continue if it rained with the audience sheltering under the walkway.

There were about two hundred people sitting in the amphitheatre or at the tables and chair around Minchella’s enlarged tea house and ice cream parlour with a steady queue at the take away service window. There were about half a dozen aging bikers who have made the location there own throughout the year.

The first act was a young female guitarist with a strong local accent Courtney Dixon aged 15-16 who reached the final of the North East and Scotland Open Mike competition where she also entered when she was 13 years of age. I did not feel the open air acoustics benefited her voice. There is a video from the competition on You Tube. I cannot remember if the next solo singer was Dean James or Paul Liddell who followed Courtney’s half hourish set. I had found a cold stone sat in a more sheltered spot but the music was not sufficiently compelling for me to stay.

On the way back I had a better look at the new paved area outside the new swimming and general Leisure centre which looks as if it will be completed soon and was scheduled to be ready before the end of Spring. The project is to be called Haven Point and will also include yet another Amphitheatre making three along the Coast and River. As previously mentioned although there is ane expensive recreation of the original bandstand in South Bents Park, it is not used until August with concerts during June and July on Sunday’s at the seacoast Amphitheatre.

On Saturday there is a three hour show covering local talent aged 15 to 19 years who will be competing to perform on the main stage at an all day event managed by the Customs House of August 4^th when I am in London watch Durham at Lords at the new as yet not completed amphitheatre. Young adults were invited to send their tracks to the organisers of the Bernicia Festival. Bernicia standing for the ancient Saxon Kingdom which covered Northumberland and Durham, Berwick and Lothian region of Scotland.

The organisers selected three of the most talented youngsters to perform on the Saturday evening. Although the weather looked good I wondered about the turn out because of the clash with the final of Britain’s Got Talent and which led to the Voice to switch its latest episode to last night. I decided to set the recorder and go and see for myself but this time taking the car to the bottom of the hill with a variety of clothing for outside wear.

On getting outside of the car the air felt warm and there were sunbathers in the North Bents Park although it was just on six o’ clock and those going in both directions along Ocean Road were lightly dressed so putting on a heavy coat seemed out of place so I continued with the same light jacket as on Thursday but as soon as I reached the roadside promenade I realised the wind was just as strong as before an decided against moving closer to the sands along the beach promenade.

I had a light evening meal of a small quiche and some cherries beforehand and wafting odour of the fish of fish and Chips from the roadside kiosks and the Ocean Restaurant was a powerful reminder that I had consumed little. Every outside table was occupied at the Sundial and there were six row of caravans and motor homes in the park adjacent to the official holiday home park and I had also noted that South bents park was full of families enjoying the children’s play parks, the train, the boating or just lazing on the grass. The fun fair was also doing good business including the giant swinging arm.

Although ti was well after six when I reached the amphitheatre it looked as the first act was just setting up the instruments with the amplifier and I judged he audience t be less than on Friday. I made my way along to the Sandancer, a pub restaurant I have visited many items usual around six in the evenings when the cross channel ferry could be view from one fo he beach side restaurants, This was then the restaurant was part fo a chain and where vouchers reducing the bill by £5 for two were frequently available.

This is now an individually owned facility aiming at the well dressed young with music evenings and with price a little above average with a two course Sunday mean £8.95. I had intended to continue to walk along the beach promenade to the Trow Rocks but tis would have meant cross sand without doubling back to the car park so I change tak and went back to the amphitheatre where the first act did not appeal and as suspected the temperature was lowering so I set on a quickly agreed plan B. This included calling in att eh first Kiosk for 1 £1.70 carton of fatty chips with batty which I then eat in the car which after travelling the short distance back to the temporary summer car park across the road from the amphitheatre. The second was more to my likely will summer sounding instrumentation so I stayed for half an hour before going back to view the Britain’s Got Talent final,

It was looking over towards Tynemouth Priory on Thursday evening that the idea of making the walk along the River bank to the north Tyneside Fish quay for lunch one fine day soon was planted. That fine day came sooner than anticipated when the urge to go out once more in the sunshine was strong on Friday morning and I decided to make the trip taking a near empty rucksack to purchase some needed items from Morrisons on the way back. I did take my mini pocket radio and enjoyed both classical and radio one 1 along the way. Radio One was enjoying some national publicity because the Queen was visiting the broadcast studio as part of opening the new BBC London HQ centre yesterday, on her own as Prince Philip had entered a private hospital for surgery on his abdomen after various tests and was scheduled to stay in the hospital for two weeks. The band, “The Script” were invited to the live studio to play a number and be introduced to the head of State and later the morning presenter gushed her excitement during an interview with the lead singer before the group played a couple of their favourite hits in a move designed to make Royalty more accessible and connected with the young.

I took the Ferry which arrived on the North bank in time for the just before half past buses. I had debated going to visit the Pitman Painters gallery at Ashington, but I had missed the connection just before the hour. I took the 10.27 number 19 bus for the short journey to North Shields metro station before the vehicle went on to the Northumberland park metro station where I assume it did a turn around. I had to wait only few minutes for the equally short train ride to Tynemouth where I decided not to take the stairway over the line and go out from the arrival platform just to see where it led. The walk paralleled that from the other platform exit, along to the famous private school one side with attractive terraced villas on the other the other side of the junction with the road to the castle and priory and the main road from North Shields where I could have arrived by bus

The coaster goes from Gateshead and Newcastle to Tynemouth and on to Whitley Bay via North Shields. There is also a service which commencing in Newcastle goes on to Blyth (306 308) and the 357 ends at Tynemouth from Newcastle and of course there is the one buss direct from the ferry, the 333 but which goes to the Coast Road to the North East of the town and involves a longer walk longer walk. I did debate this possibility back at the ferry bus terminal but the driver of the 19 came first while that of the 333 was having a smoke, but given the number of us waiting for the 19, the 333 set off just seconds beforehand.

Along the main street to the castle and priory there were not as many enjoying coffee at outside tables as I have witnessed on past visits. On reaching the ruins of the Castle I took the road down to the river side passing the route to the north pier on my left and the two free car parks on the right and noting three caseloads of tourists, all from the same company admiring the view back along the river and across to South Shields. I wondered where they were from and where they were going.

Reaching the esplanade the smell of sea weed on rocks greeted me. The smell took me back to the childhood recognition that a summer holiday away from home had commenced with this unmistakable badge of the seaside.

The views from this side of the river are gloriously spectacular and people pay thousands to experience abroad so I stopped at a couple of bench seats along the journey. The only dispiriting sight is the stern long block of flats above me, built to house seafarers each with a balcony view they were a commendable patronage in their day but now reminder everyone that this was an industrial and commercial river and not a tourist visitation.

As it was someway before noon when some of the restaurants offered their lunch time, daytime special I was able to view what all the establishments offered. Irvins Brasserie is the first the most pricey. I settled for Sambuca 2 one fo three owned by the same company at the other end after finding a yet another seat and admiring the view until noon. Cassia Sambuca and Sambucas are the other two adjacent but separate venues with the Cassia offering a three course £4.95 set meal with the two siblings £3.95. In between the two ends of the Quay area is the popular Martino restaurant with several pavement tables and which had the most diners drowsing in just before the hour sounded.

Oceans specialises in Fish and Chips with a separate Take away. They do offer a Pensioners special at £4.90 with the standard price a couple of pounds more. I did not check the take away prices although many were purchasing the boxed meal and eating from one of the riverside seats. There are several fish merchants, a continental foods store which also offered either a pheasant or a rabbit at under a fiver and one other eaterie as well as a couple of pubs, one by the fish dock and the other, the oldest in the town one with a maximum height of 5ft 8. There is also the Fish Quay Fair an indoor market with some 100 stalls open at weekends and possible midweek. I tend to look and not buy so just as well the venue was not open.

There were only two ladies in Sambuca 2 when I entered just afternoon and this enabled me to chose the only table with a full window view. I chose the potato skins starter although seeing the Minestrone soup offered another customer who arrived later this offered a more substantial portion. I also chose a penne carbonara- the egg cheese bacon dish with various pasta options and then coffee rather than ice cream have commenced with half a lager £1.50 so with £1 tip, the meal cost me £6.50. The decision to eat out rather than take a packed lunch came after a moment of rashness when before leaving I had purchased a £5 instant lottery ticked when getting my entry for the Euro lottery. I had then won £20 making net gain of £15.

Satisfied by the meal I walked leisurely back to the ferry landing arriving to watch it departing and therefore had half an hour to wait enjoying the view once more from one of the seats on the landing. I bought three £1 bags of cherries from the greengrocers under the Metro station and then at Morrisons, milk, a lettuce, some pate and margarine before reaching home. It had been a good morning which I wanted to make again.

Tyne River cruise June 2013

There was fog at the mouth of the river Tyne yesterday morning June 4^th 201 which lingered for most of the day and which was dense reducing visibility to the extent that in a boat in mid channel it was impossible to see either of the piers.

The fog was there when I went downstairs having planned to take a cruise on the Tyne but commencing in Newcastle. Fortunately it brightened sufficiently quickly for me to commence a packed lunch of four small home baked rolls filled with a pate, a small bag if cherries and two cans of Pepsi in a small cold bag with ice container.

The sun was warm as I went to the Metro station but I wondered if I should have brought a warmer coat, wearing my summer flannel as there is a cold wind off the river as the mouth is approached. I was not surprised how busy the train was as everyone seemed to be seizing the continuing good weather to be out and about. I then made a decision which worked out wonderfully well in terms of what could have happened. I stayed on the train on reaching Newcastle central station which was the stop for the shortest walk down to the quay side passing Monument and on to the Haymarket stop for the bus station when I just missed the every ten minute service to the quayside from the first stand.

It was while waiting that I suddenly remembered that I had not removed my cash from the thicker trousers worn the previous day when switching to the lighter pair I was wearing. I had no money to pay the £11 fare for a senior, a pound reduction on the adult charge and as there was no guarantee that a credit card machine would be available, I quickly rounded the corner back to the Metro station where again fortunately, there is a bank branch, my own, across the forecourt. The bus was back on station and ready to go as soon as I arrived with the driver having closed the doors, but again good fortune was me and he opened them again. This time the multi pass worked but I had to be reminded to take the ticket.

I was early for the river cruise with boarding at 11 am for the noon departure and alighted at the first quayside stop rather than continuing to the Millennium Bridge or the stop at the official end of the quay. It was a very pleasant morning and I use my phone the to take yet more photos of the bridges, the Sage and the Baltic although I am yet to find out what they are like as with the brightness I could not see what was in the frames.

There were already a few people out enjoying a late breakfast or just coffee at the restaurant bar opposite the Baltic. This brand has London city prices, yet the place was packed when I returned just after three as in fairness was every one of the street tables that now occupy every available space around every eaterie and bar in the city. I can remember what the quayside was like forty years ago when the cargo sheds remained, a score of then, from the days when Newcastle was a busy port and with the rest of river all the way to the sea, some thirteen miles alive with ship building and repair yards, cargo loading and loading docks, tug boats and customs.

I was also unsure give this was just the starting month of the river cruise season and a weekend if there would be sufficient customers for the three hour down river or later two hour up river trip and or the one hour around the city. The three craft used by River Escapes are moored midway between the Millennium Bridge and the end of the quayside. Along this stretch I noted a car park which although costing £1 for an hour £2 for two, cost only £3 for the day and on the bus ride down to the quay I noted that the extension Eldon Square Car Park is now free after 5pm which would ideal for visits to the Playhouse Theatre which I have to visited since finding that the Sleep Apnoea was affect my ability to enjoy the evening performances. It did occur that I would have to study the last traffic directions map I order to fid a way to reach both car parks!

Seeing a few people board one fo three boats I decided to make my way, paid the £11 and was disappointed that my ticket was retained by a young woman at the gang plank entrance after taking the lower river level pathway to the second and largest of the vessels. I secured a place on the top deck and was surprised and several of the later arrivals preferred the lower deck at the end of the boat and as the journey progressed down river their wisdom was evident sheltered from cold wind, enjoying drinks and food in the sunshine.

On both decks there was a number of chairs and tables (for 30 said at notice at the top) although there was only a couple at the front, me to one side and three men to the other and a woman on her own towards the rear. Half these vacated to lower deck before the River moth was reached because of the cold wind.

The first difference from my previous journey is that the Spillers factory site has been cleared although there is a Spillers Toffee making factory elsewhere in Newcastle. On the Newcastle side of the river the various warehouse Loft conversions, new flats, town house and maisonettes around St Peter’s basin and Ouseburn have been completed and with modest prices compared to London and the South generally where two and three bed properties are on the market at between £180000 and £250000 and with those closer to the town centre or with river views, riverside balconies commanding the higher prices. I will take the bus one day and continue to the Ouseburn where there is an attractive looking pub by the small boat basin,

There are few penthouses visible on both sides of the river and a large now well established Jury’s Inn development £55 without breakfast, £65 with on the Gateshead bank by the Baltic, and the huge Holiday Inn £72 with breakfast, two of several new hotels that have been added to the city, along with a Travel Lodge and Premier Inn, attracting business, conferences tourists and families visiting some of the seventy thousand students that are now in the city.

On the Gateshead bank down stream there is the Elephant on the Tyne, a 28 bed Hotel, restaurant and entertainment centre once owned by the traditional Geordie humour comic Bobby Pattison who along with the Little Waster, Bobby Thompson who owned and ran a Comedy Club in the centre of Gateshead once led the Comedy revival in the north east. Opposite hotel with a commanding riverside view is a residential block of accommodation. The site is in the area of the Gateshead stadium which I will be visiting of the European team Championship

Further along on this bank isolated is the giant Marine Paint factory complex which I believe still employs several thousand people and provide the paint required for some 40% of the British Naval Fleet. There are tree wooded banks on both sides of the river replacing former boat yards until reaching Hebburn where I once watched large vessels being launched from one of the many great shipyards on this stretch of the Tyne on to South and North Shields. Swan Hunters, Palmers yards at Jarrow and Hebburn, Armstrongs, Parsons Marine, McNulty marine etc. Now among the little craft marinas there are still cranes, some ship repairs, North Sea Platforms and repair and maintenance and cabling. There is also the giant coal dock between Shields and Jarrow opened by the Queen mother but where now the coal comes in from Russia and Poland. The mountain of white goods destined for China appears to have gone.

Palmers of Jarrow went because its owner was wedded to building naval craft when the nation hoped the need had reduced with the end of the First Word War. An opportunity to retain a large port was missed when the idea of creating new docks at Jarrow by filling in the sandbanks at Jarrow Slake was rejected until more recent decades when the arrival of the Nissan car works, their most successful in the world, was created at Washington Sunderland and a car export port was required. Now thousands of vehicle were gleaning in the sunshine waiting to be shipped around the world.

The great Tyne Dock is no longer with the last created used for the second Tyne river road Tunnel completed two years ago. It said that up two hundred sail mastered ships once used the docks in its heydays. Middle docks South Shields is also now derelict and only partly cleared with the ambitious plans for the site appearing now to be on hold until the Town centre development has been completed.

As recently mentioned on the cross Tyne ferry visit, North Tyneside has cleared the former dockland area on its North Bank but again there as yet no signs of development. What has been created with some success is the North Tyneside Ferry Port. These are huge Channel crossing passenger and Lorry Transport vessels and adjacent to the ferry terminal is also the berth now used for visiting cruise liners, from time to time.

Our small craft, by comparison, continued in a growing wind into the dense fog between the two piers turning as the official entrance to the river was reached passing once more between the two buoys which marked the channel with rocks, the black maddens on one side and sand banks on the other. I have promised myself a visit to the Fish Quay and do the walk from the beach area to Tynemouth.

Yesterday discovering that my vehicle urgently needed its MOT I visited the Customs House area after the vehicle was taken to the garage to purchase my ticket for the Traditional Jazz and Blues evening at the end of October associated with the Whitely Bay Jazz weekend. I noted that the Coffee shop and bar premises which was once one of three public houses on the road down to the Customs House complex, the first a sports and karaoke bar and the third a real ale specialist was now closed.. It was on this walk that I realised that the new amphitheatre is being located at the Customs House end of the new Riverside park although my query whether it would be ready in three weeks time for the proposed large screen relay from Glastonbury remains. I then went over to Asda buying a chicken for the weekend, some, dried figs, individual quiche and a pack of smoked mackerel. I then enjoyed a pot of tea and a chocolate brownie(£1.80) in the cafe until notified that the vehicle had passed without requiring immediate additional work although the advisory suggests that I will need to start saving now to attend to various works which will be required sometime when the service is due in December and by next Spring time.

As soon as the cruise craft turned up river I went to the bar on the lower deck for a coffee and cake bar £2.80 and warmed up although once up river we lost the cold wind and I was able to relax and enjoy the speedy return to the city. The Millennium bridge had been opened for the start of venture and I had listened to the 60^th anniversary of the Coronation ceremony from Westminster Abbey which seemed a fitting event as I remembered my forty years on Tyne and Wearside.

Back at the quay I decided to walk up to Haymarket, fist along the Quay and then up the great Georgian Street, Grey Street to the Monument, passing Eldon Square full of people enjoying the sunshine and then to the Haymarket Station where a young man was having trouble finding his pass which he did. It was on the walk back that I appreciated the extent to which every available pavement space was being used by shoppers and visitors enjoying this first real taste of summer. I was back home just before five pleased I had interpreted the weather conditions correctly. It had been a good day.